自家製午餐肉 Homemade luncheon meat

午餐肉無人不熟悉, 是陪伴一起成長的罐頭食品。實在少吃多滋味。高鈉高脂肪, 添加防腐等, 都不及罐頭本身的害處。有關罐頭有N種化學物, 不易被人體排走。隔着鋁罐和食物間的塑膠也隨年月渗入食物中。詳情可按“自家製粟米蓉肉粒飯”。

網上做午餐肉的食譜不多。做法和成份卻大同小異, 成品卻不是想像和要求的。參考Spam罐上成份有水, 鹽, 香辛料和豬肉。實驗了兩次再加入做扎肉和煙肉的心得。最終製成品也不錯。

心得如下:

1. 無論做肉腸, burger, 扎肉。用攪拌機打之前需把肉冷藏(帶冰凍), 始終經機器攪拌發出熱力, 部份肉屑會受熱而有一㸃熟。雖然問題好微細(subtle), 口感卻有一㸃“鞋”。

2. 同樣, 有些食譜先攪爛, 醃完雪凍再蒸。肉的水份因此流失一㸃。最重要還是同1一樣。尤其是做扎肉。

3. 肉醃的過程也產生發酵。尤其加入含天然酵素的醃料, 如薑, 木瓜, 酒等。從而影響肉質, 造成霉爛。所以不宜太多或醃漬過耐。

4. 加入適量肥膏(白色皮下那些), 肉會鬆化。且含飽和脂肪(同時有好壞膽固醇), 令肉保存長一㸃。高温烹煮時, 油脂不易氧化。

第一次實驗:

用做醃肉(cure meat)的原理。用白胡椒粉, 鹽落多了, 好鹹。加入木薯粉, 肉打得較爛(糊), 之後蒸30分, 出來口感好鬆化, 亦有一㸃彈, 顏色不好看。即食不似午餐肉口感。凍了卻很似。

第二次實驗:

加了paprika令顏色帶㸃紅, 肉不打爛成糊, 少落一半木薯粉。一樣加白胡椒粉, 鹽少落一些。出來顏色有改善, 味道不似午餐肉, 不太鹹。即食肉質較似Spam但肉較粗。凍食有肉餅感覺。

最終做法:

材料(約4x3寸圓罐)-

豬踭肉去皮(肉檔介紹, 肉質較爽) $40, 把筋膜全部切去, 只保留適量純白色皮下的白膏。切成粒後磅400g

鹽, 最好用Kosher salt(能保持肉的水份) 3g味淡 (少過1茶匙=0.6茶匙) +半碗熱水溶解。 喜歡有一㸃鹹加至5g (5g=1茶匙)。想濃味一㸃, 8-10g (大約1.5-2茶匙)

糖 半茶匙
白胡椒粉 半茶匙

薑粉 1/3茶匙 或鮮薑汁 1茶匙

五香粉 1/3茶匙

木薯粉 1湯匙

蕃薯粉(地瓜粉) 1.5湯匙 (想多肉的口感, 減至1湯匙)

豬肉印乾, 切粒, 加入乾粉

逐少倒入鹽水, 讓豬肉吸水, 直至豬肉不再吸水便停(出來少一㸃糊狀) 或像圖中, 豬肉停止吸水後多2湯匙水份, 效果帶少許糊狀 (因個別豬肉吸水有别或印乾豬肉的情度不一, 留心豬肉吸水情況便可, 所以不要用太多水開鹽水以影響鹹度)。放入冰箱半天或一天也沒有問題

從冰箱取出放室溫, 仍保持冰凍便可逐少攪成半糊狀(喜歡有少許肉碎的, 可攪下停下攪下停下或部份打成糊, 部份不太糊)

之前蒸效果不太理想。今次用燉的方式, 因罐頭食品也經高温消毒處理。而且燉令肉質更綿。器皿方面, 有蓋較好。使用焗盆(baking tin), 玻璃盒也可, 但最好用重物壓實再用鍚紙封住。圖中不鏽鋼飯盒超方便, 密封同時, 內裡的放餸格正好壓實豬肉糊, 令午餐肉更緊密。

打好的肉糊放入器皿中, 不要攪以防豬肉起膠。用匙羹向下壓以排出空氣, 抺平表面

把盒中餸格放上豬肉, 蓋上及緊緊扣上(即内裡不要有空位, 若豬肉太多, 宜取出一㸃, 因蒸熟會膨脹)。放上蒸格, 加水至蓋下1cm, 若是baking tin則5cm, 中火, 燉1小時。之後放涼, 置於雪櫃一晚(不要打開, 讓肉汁被肉吸收)

好感動呀, 一打開好香, 效果是我想要的。肉質很密集, 因飯盒蓋壓得很實。而且隔一晚先開蓋, 肉質比蒸完即食更綿。

午餐肉的口味和肉質好個人。調味和鹽份量跟自己喜歡作出改變。做過一次便加多減少調較喜愛的口味了。但做法方面, 以上的程序也差不多。雖然理想中, 希望做到Spam的口感, 下次少落一㸃澱粉看看效果。此外, 做外國口味的火腿餐肉, 再少落一㸃薑或五香粉較夾。方法可行了, 肉類有更多選擇, 如做鹹牛肉, 火雞餐肉等。做法也差不多啊! Enjoy!


Ingredients:
Pork shoulder meat with a bit fat (after skim the fat and membranes) 400g
Kosher salt 3g (0.6teaspoon) or 5g (1 teaspoon) for salty flavor,  mix with half bowl of hot water
Sugar 1/2 teaspoon
Ground white pepper 1/2 teaspoon
Ground ginger 1/3 teaspoon or 1 teaspoon fresh ginger sauce
1/3 five spices
Tapioca powder 1 tablespoon
Potato starch 1.5 tablespoon (or decrease to 1 tablespoon for less starchy texture)

Method:
1. Prepare an airtight stainless steel container or baking tin with foil to cover.
2. Rinse the pork and dry.
3. Cut the pork into big cubes and mix with dry ingredients.
4. Gradually add in salted water, stir until the water is not being absorbed by the meat, then stop adding water (for more springy texture) or like the recipe, add half bowl of salted water which is around 2 extra spoonful. So, do not dissolve the salt into a big bowl of hot water at the beginning.
5. Keep the meat in freezer for 1/2 to 1 day.
6. Take out to room temperature until the meat is still very cold but not icing.
7. Mince the meat with an electric blender until partially puree.
8. Bring it into the container, press down to remove air. Smooth the top with a spoon.
9. For the container which has shown on the picture above, put the inner tray in, cover and lock accordingly. Make sure no space between the meat puree and cover. For other container, like baking tin, cover the puree with a pc of foil. Put something heavy on top that would enable a firm texture of luncheon meat.
10. Prepare a stockpot, place the container on a tripod, add hot water until 1cm lower than the airtight container or 5cm lower than a baking tin.
11. Boil for an hour in medium heat.
12. Cool down and refrigerate at least half day.
13. Remove the luncheon meat from the container after a day.
14. Enjoy with your dishes.