非常美味且不肥膩的豬手食譜,幾個女人可快速連汁清碟。食譜選用新鮮天然黑豬,本身肉質較有嚼口,肉味較濃。用小火燜煮數小時,豬手組織,筋腱溶化。我在豬手未完全離骨或溶化時熄火,不但保持它的完整性,更減少肥膩及滯口。相反,腍中帶有嚼口,皮鬆而彈,用刀叉享用。配合其他配菜,如綿密不辛辣的薑片,滋補的雞蛋,連汁都要拌飯。高度評價!
烹飪除了是藝術, 也是一門科學。肉食,特別較為韌的部份,媽媽會教小火燜耐一點,大火便「鞋」了。在這些經驗,智慧背後是有科學根據。
肉類由不同結締組織, 脂肪,水份, 蛋白質等組成。較深色的肉類與較淺色的所含的組織功能不同。例如多運動的雞肶肉與靜態的雞胸肉。雞肶肉較深色, 多活動也含較多結締組織,脂肪,水份,膠原和味道。相反雞胸肉淺色含少脂肪,膠原,結締組織和水份, 肉味較淡。
此外烹煮温度及時間也影響肉食質感。細件的肉宜高温快速烹煮, 使表面水份蒸發,金黄香口,內裡juicy。但較大較堅韌的部分高温快煮,肉不但未熟透,肌肉纖維收緊, 水份快速流失,結締組織(筋腱),包括膠原蛋白未夠時間由固體狀成液化 (to gelatin),脂肪未溶解,味道也不夠豐富。
因此,低温慢煮的烹調方法正正適合。大約4-50度肉温,蛋白質開始變型,5-60度脂肪開始溶解。大約70度,堅韌的筋腱,柔軟的膠原(collagen)也開始鬆弛,由固體慢慢液化。這個過程需時,也要保持温度。肉食中筋腱夠腍,肌肉纖維又沒有筋膜黏著,肉與溶解的脂肪,結締組織,膠原混合。
引伸去我們日常烹煮,首先煎香肉的表面。在安全角度看,这高温的過程能有效殺死黏附肉食表面的細菌。雖然肌肉看似收緊,隨著時間,低温,加上烹調的味道,就燜出又香又腍又濕潤的佳餚了。
另一個話題是,烹煮的過程,加入酸性食材,如醋之類也有效軟化堅韌部位。口感而言,也中和肥膩。這餸菜好好味!
材料:
新鮮豬手(上半部) 1件
薑 約10片 (3mm厚)
雞蛋 適量 (可省減,先蒸6分鐘,浸冰水10分鐘去殼)
鹽 少許
甜醋汁:
甜醋 1cup
花雕紹興酒 3/4 cup
麻油 1/4 cup
老抽 2湯匙
做法:
1. 豬手洗淨,以薑,酒出水。之後在水喉下冲洗至冷卻。
2. 爆香薑片,保留小部分薑皮更佳。
3. 爆香豬手,特別皮,灑鹽調味。
4. 直至皮香微黄,先灒1/3 紹興酒,再煎香豬手表面。重複分2次灒下剩餘的酒。
5. 之後注入甜醋,老抽及麻油滾起校最小火,燜約4小時或筷子插入夠腍(食譜隔晚燜,先3小時,第二天再燜多個幾小時)。
6. 期間要反轉。
7. 當豬手夠腍, 骨凸出,肉收縮,去除浮面肥油,轉中火收濃汁,並定時反轉(像圖中,皮部分有點黐底,請注意),之後熄火,把已去殼蛋放入浸。蓋上,浸一會。
8. 先把雞蛋,豬手上碟,把汁翻熱淋上。
人人爭吃豬皮, 又腍又有彈性, 天然黑毛豬肉甜。薑片經數小時烹煮,不辛辣而且很粉口。汁濃,味道豐富,好拌飯!
Tips:
1. 個別爐温, 豬手有異,自我調節時間。
2. 食譜使用「荃灣悦和甜醋」, 味道非常好,不需要加水。
3. 不用明火,可整煲放入焗爐燜,100-120度,先焗2小時,再加時。此外,使用電飯煲也可。
4. 汁的份量可調節,甜醋最大比例,紹興酒比甜醋少一點,麻油再比紹興酒少。
Ingredients:
1 fresh pork knuckle
Around 10 pcs of fresh ginger (thickly sliced ~3mm each)
Boiled eggs, optional (steam eggs for 6 mins, then immerse in the iced water for further 10 mins, remove the egg shells)
Salt
Sauce:
1 cup sweetened vinegar
2/3 cup Shaoxing rice wine
1/4 cup roasted sesame seed oil
2 tbsp dark soy sauce
Directions:
1. Rinse the pork knuckle, blanch with ginger and wine. Then flush under running water to cool.
2. Saute the ginger pcs until aromatic.
3. Then sear the pork knuckle until browned, season with salt.
4. Sizzle 1/3 of the Shaoxing rice wine, continue to sear the pork knuckle. Repeat 2 more times until finish adding wine.
5. Add sweet vinegar, dark soy sauce and sesame seed oil into the pork. Bring it to boil, then adjust to low heat to cook around 4 hours or until the pork knuckle is tender.
6. Flip during cooking.
7. When the pork knuckle is tender, and the meat is started to fall off. Then discard floating oil, adjust to medium heat, cook around 10 mins until the sauce is rich and intense in flavor (pay attention to the skin that might stick on the casserole). Then, off heat, immerse the boiled eggs into the sauce. Cover and stay for a while.
8. When serve, put knuckle and eggs on plate. Reheat the sauce and pour on top of the knuckle with ginger. Enjoy.
Tips:
1. Adjust time of braising as size of pork knuckle and heat power differ.
2. I use the sweetened vinegar from Tsuen Wan "Yuet Woo condiment shop", the taste is good, no need to dilute with water.
3. You can bake the casserole in the oven at 100-120°C for 2 hours, then check and adjust further time or even use rice cooker for slow cook.
4. The sauce can be adjusted by proportion. The amount of Shaoxing rice wine is slightly less than those sweetened vinegar you will add while the sesame seeds oil is nearly 1/3 of the Shaoxing rice wine.
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